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xTool F2 Ultra UV Leather Settings: Genuine, Faux & Leatherette Chart (2026)

Sourced xTool F2 Ultra UV leather settings for genuine leather, faux/PU leather and two-tone leatherette patches, plus cutting, a test-grid method and troubleshooting.

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Last updated: November 3, 2026

Desktop UV laser engraver with an engraved leather card wallet and keychain and the title xTool F2 Ultra UV Leather Settings UV lasers mark leather with very little soot or char. (AI-generated illustration, generic machine.)

Quick facts

  • Machine: xTool F2 Ultra UV, 5W, 355 nm ultraviolet galvo laser
  • Genuine leather starting point: 30% power, 500 mm/s, 1 pass, 500 DPI
  • Faux leather starting point: 32% power, 400 mm/s, 1 pass, 500 DPI
  • 3 mm top-grain cowhide: 65% power, 225 mm/s, 1 pass
  • Two-tone leatherette patch: 90% power, 180 mm/s, 250 lines/cm, 40 kHz
  • Cutting PU leather (1 mm): 100% power, 10 mm/s, 1 pass
  • Watch out: library presets can under-mark real leather, so always test
  • Each color reacts differently, so save a setting per leather

Quick answer: the best starting settings

For genuine leather, a good starting point is 30% power, 500 mm/s, 1 pass. Run a test grid and adjust. Thick or oiled hides may need far more energy.

For faux (PU) leather, start at 32% power, 400 mm/s, 1 pass.

For two-tone leatherette patches, try 65–90% power at 180–225 mm/s, 40 kHz and check that the top layer is fully cleared.

A library preset of 80% power at 600 mm/s can barely mark a genuine leather belt. On one belt the useful row was 30% power at 20 mm/s, about 25 times slower than the 500 mm/s starting row. A large name at that speed took about 10 minutes.

xTool F2 Ultra UV leather settings chart

Leather / resultPowerSpeedPassesLines/cm or DPIFrequency
Genuine leather, engrave30%500 mm/s1500 DPInot stated
Faux leather, fine detail32%400 mm/s1500 DPInot stated
3 mm top-grain cowhide65%225 mm/s1not statednot stated
Genuine leather belt (after a test grid)30%20 mm/s1not statednot stated
PU leatherette text65%225 mm/s1120 LPC40 kHz
Yellow-to-black leatherette hat patch90%180 mm/s1250 LPC40 kHz
Same patch, needed heavy scrubbing90%180 mm/s1200 LPC40 kHz
Library preset (leather / PU)80%600 mm/snot statednot statednot stated

Cutting leather

JobPowerSpeedPassesResult
Brown-to-black PU leather, 1 mm100%10 mm/s1Cut
Thick bridle butt leathernot statednot statednot statedClean, char-free edges

Tip: Keep each row's numbers together. Mixing power from one row with speed from another is a new combination. Run a test grid before you use it.

Why the numbers disagree

  • Genuine leather varies a lot. Tanning, oils, thickness and color all change how much energy it takes.
  • Leatherette is a plastic coating. Too much power melts it rather than darkening it.
  • The goal differs. A light mark, a dark brand and a fully cleared two-tone patch need very different energy.

What the settings mean

  • Power (%): laser output. Higher means a darker, deeper mark.
  • Speed (mm/s): slower puts more energy into each spot.
  • Lines per cm: line density. Higher fills solid areas but takes longer. 100 lines/cm equals 254 DPI.
  • Frequency (kHz): pulse rate, 40–150 kHz on the F2 Ultra UV. Every leather recipe in the chart that states a frequency uses 40 kHz.

Genuine leather vs faux leather vs leatherette

  • Genuine leather: natural hide. Marks darker with more energy. It can still smell quite a bit. Run extraction.
  • Faux / PU leather: a plastic surface. Past a point it goes glossy and rubbery instead of dark, and there is no way back. Lower power and add speed.
  • Two-tone leatherette: a thin colored top layer over a contrasting base. Clear the top layer without melting the base.
  • Clean edges are the main advantage. Little soot, and cuts can come out with no char to sand off. Some jobs have no burnt-leather smell at all. Don't count on that for genuine hide.
  • A 65 × 65 mm logo on a library default can take about 1 minute. PU text at 65% and 225 mm/s took 23 seconds.
  • Colors react differently at the same settings. Save one setting per leather color. Black-to-silver leatherette can come out more grey than silver. If that happens, try a different two-tone stock.

Two-tone leatherette hat patch and engraved brown leather keychain Two-tone leatherette (left) and genuine leather (right) need very different settings. (AI-generated example.)

Step-by-step: engraving leather on the F2 Ultra UV

1. Pick a base setting

  • In xTool Studio, open the closest library leather so you can see the suggested settings.
  • Or start from a row in the chart above. Use the preset as the top of a test grid, not as the final job.

2. Hold it flat and focus

  • Tape or strap the leather flat to the baseplate.
  • Autofocus, or overlap the red and blue spots on the surface.

3. Run a test grid

  • Choose Applications > Material test array.
  • A useful span is 20–80% power and 100–600 mm/s, with the preset as the maximum.
  • Judge darkness, edge sharpness and any glossy melting.

4. Engrave

  • Use the best square from the grid.
  • On patches, engrave the loose patch before you press it onto a hat.

5. Clean and finish

  • Leatherette residue may need a light scrub. A cleaner plus 250 lines/cm left a rich black with less scrubbing than 200 lines/cm.
  • Finish edges on genuine leather as you normally would.

6. Save a custom material

  • Set the material back to unknown first, so you don't overwrite the library preset.
  • Save one setting per leather color.

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeFix
Barely any mark on real leatherPreset too fastSlow down a lot and re-run the grid
Glossy, melted leatheretteToo much energyLower power, add speed
Two-tone patch looks greyTop layer not cleared, or the stock reacts poorlyRaise lines/cm slightly or try another stock
Lots of residue to scrubLow line density250 lines/cm cleaned up easier than 200
Uneven toneLeather not flatTape it down and refocus
Strong smellGenuine leatherRun extraction; UV reduces smell but doesn't remove it

FAQ

Can the xTool F2 Ultra UV engrave leather?

Yes. It engraves genuine leather, faux (PU) leather and two-tone leatherette, with little soot and less burnt smell than hotter lasers.

What is a good starting setting for genuine leather?

A good starting point is 30% power, 500 mm/s, 1 pass, 500 DPI. For 3 mm top-grain cowhide, try 65% and 225 mm/s. Run a test grid and adjust.

Are xTool's library leather presets reliable?

Not always. An 80% / 600 mm/s preset can barely mark a genuine leather belt. A working row on that belt was 30% power and 20 mm/s.

What settings work for leatherette hat patches?

A yellow-to-black leatherette patch marked at 90% power, 180 mm/s, 1 pass, 250 lines/cm, 40 kHz. PU leatherette text marked at 65%, 225 mm/s, 120 lines/cm, 40 kHz.

Can the xTool F2 Ultra UV cut leather?

Yes. Thick bridle butt can cut with clean, char-free edges. A starting cut for 1 mm PU leather is 100% power and 10 mm/s, 1 pass.

Does UV leather engraving smell?

Less than CO2 or diode, but not zero. Some jobs have no burnt-leather smell. Genuine leather can still smell quite a bit.

Why do different colored leathers look different with the same settings?

Each color reacts differently. Save a separate setting for each leather color.

Why does my silver leatherette come out grey?

Black-to-silver leatherette can turn more grey than silver, even after a test grid. Try a different two-tone stock.

Final thoughts

Start genuine leather at 30% and 500 mm/s and faux leather at 32% and 400 mm/s, then let a test grid decide. Expect real leather to need much more energy than presets suggest. Save one setting per leather color.

Sources and further watching

  1. xTool Support, Processing Parameters for F2 Ultra UV
  2. xTool Support, Processing Parameters (Test Matrix)
  3. Bonny Creations, Genuine Leather on the F2 Ultra UV
  4. Bonny Creations, Faux Leather on the F2 Ultra UV
  5. Bonny Creations, F2 Ultra UV settings hub
  6. Atomm, Leather for Laser Engraving
  7. Atomm, Hat Patch Using F2 Ultra UV
  8. DAYGONE LASERCRAFT, UV Laser vs Real Leather
  9. DAYGONE LASERCRAFT, UV Laser vs Leatherette
  10. J.H.Leather, Gift Making with the F2 Ultra UV
  11. Hands On Katie, Testing An Impossible Laser
  12. Aurora Tech, F2 Ultra UV In-Depth Review

A material test grid on a genuine leather belt. (Video: DAYGONE LASERCRAFT on YouTube.)

A test grid and final settings on PU leatherette. (Video: DAYGONE LASERCRAFT on YouTube.)

Leather bookmarks, keyrings and char-free leather cutting. (Video: J.H.Leather on YouTube.)

Related settings

All material settings

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